WGSN Predictions For The Future

WGSN Predictions For The Future

Nail Industry Future

 

I took part in a presentation by WGSN recently that was organised by the British Beauty Council. For those unfamiliar with WGSN this is how they describe themselves:

‘With unparalleled coverage and analysis into the world of consumers, WGSN Insight is our flagship trend product. Featuring original and thought-provoking content on consumer, marketing, retail and innovation trends, WGSN Insight helps the world’s most creative thinkers stay ahead.’

Many companies of all sizes use them as the trend predictors for consumers, marketing, retail and innovation. Always fascinating and always thought provoking.  This presentation was looking at the beauty market for 2023 and it really made me think.  They have broken it down into 5 main areas for consideration:

  • Push for progress
  • Embracing frugality
  • Wellbeing
  • Tech-ceptance
  • Intentional community

There is also a big focus on science & sustainability.

So how does this impact or affect the nail sector of the beauty industry?  Well there were a few ‘sound bites’ that caught my attention:

“Developing ‘multitaskers’ which can lead to frugality”
“Judicious choices therefore less waste”
“Smart decisions”
“Proven results” 

OK, so what?

There is clearly a LOT of research and development in the beauty industry both for professionals and the consumer. But does this apply to ‘nails’? All of our nail coatings are, basically, plastic!

But we do already have some great ‘multitaskers’!

Nail oil – This has got to be one of the very best! As long as it is suitable for the nail plate and surrounding skin it performs SO many tasks!! Do you know what they all are?
CND Plexigel  is another example. 4 products that perform the tasks of many more than that!
IBX – one of the ‘game changers’ and miracle workers for those that know how and when to use it.
Pigments – a few different pigments have the ability to alter colours in a huge number of ways (and they’re not plastic)
The clear UV gel +clear full cover tips – 3 products: a base coat, a clear UV gel + tips = beautiful enhancements

Just a very few and so many more!

Even during this time of a global pandemic and little to no income, so many nail pros are intent on buying several brands and stocking 100’s of colours, often with no concern of using the correct lamp for each. Why?

Judicious choices = less waste.

To finish I would like to give a word of warning on a situation that we are seeing all over and will only get worse with this move towards ‘sustainability’ and ‘wellbeing’.

So many nail polish brands are using misleading marketing to make consumers think that their nail polish is ‘safe’, ‘non-toxic’, ‘natural’, ‘organic’, ‘breathable’ and on and on.

Environmental Ecological Nail

Nail polish cannot be natural! It has always been non-toxic and all the other fear based marketing terms. As professionals, be aware of what all this actually means! Understand the myths. Nevermind what isn’t in a product but be aware of what IS in a  product! It may contain some lovely plant based ingredients but look at what else it contains. Nail polish is safe!

Plant based doesn’t mean ‘safe’! Hemlock, a plant in many gardens, will kill you. Cow dung is ‘organic’! Need I say more.

Do not be deceived.

Find your multitaskers, make judicious choices, be less wasteful with products and hard earned cash. Above all make smart decisions.

Marian Newman, BEM

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The Nail Industry and 2021.  Where is it going?

The Nail Industry and 2021. Where is it going?

from Marian Newman, BEM
 
The nail industry is unregulated. Indeed the beauty industry, in general, is unregulated! It is largely unlicensed too.
 
Many individuals, brands and industry bodies have called for regulation. The Government will not provide regulation as it believes industry sectors need to be self regulating first. Those sectors that do a good job at self regulation get a lot more support from the Government than those that aren’t!
 
My personal stance is that, it has always been clear that some level of regulation is needed and never more than now after the challenges we have had to face in 2020! However, I also believe in ‘be careful what you wish for!’ Any form of regulation or licensing needs to represent the nail sector, be sustainable, accessible, supportable and sensible.
 

So where is the sector right now?
 

Globally, it is in ‘disarray’. The UK is a good example of this ‘disarray’!
 
  • Allergies are on the increase
  • Cheap imports have been proved to be one of the main causes, in particular, where the SDS (or the outdated MSDS provided) are not truthful in their information
  • Allergy testing for specific ingredients has a massive wait time
  • Some brands are not taking responsibility for what they are selling, if they even understand what they are selling!
  • ‘Professional’ products are available to anyone via the internet
  • DIY learning is available on the internet
  • The ‘accreditation process’ is allowing ‘not fit for purpose’ training courses while giving the same stamp of approval to excellent courses so how can those new to the industry distinguish between the two?
  • Entry to, what should be, a professional industry has no clear path
  • The basic knowledge and understanding is, so often, missed out and, if it isn’t, students are not tested.
  • Courses that even require practical learning are not required to provide case studies bearing in mind that every individual client is different.
  • Maintenance in enhancements and UV GP is not covered so often. 5 hours ‘learning’ results in ‘fully qualified’
  • A huge percentage of nail professionals are individual ‘businesses’ but no teaching on running a business is provided in many instances

Need I go on? Many are aware of the ‘story’.

 

 

If we continue in this way will we have a nail industry in 10 years? Or even 5 years?

 

 
The higher levels of who governs our country are aware of the situation and so are the ‘enforcement agencies’. Several projects are underway to address this situation. We need to be recognised as a professional career and with a ‘higher skill level’. Not a sector of hobbyists and DIY’ers charging people money for sub standard services.  It has been noted during many meetings of the ‘task force’ dealing with this pandemic that the nail industry is under-represented. There are many great associations for hair and beauty but they put little or no focus on ‘us’.  These many issues ARE going to be addressed in 2021. Issues such as ‘regulation’, ‘licensing’, minimum education requirements. There is an Act of Parliament under review at the moment that will address a lot of these next year.
 

Here is where The Federation of Nail Professionals comes in. 
It has been incorporated (as a ‘not for profit’ organisation) that will have ‘front line’ access to these discussions and conversations.  Without us, the discussions and decisions WILL happen.  Do we want to be left out of this?? If we are then we will get diluted into ‘beauty’ and have NO say in what is right and appropriate for us!  As a sector, can we be happy with this? Surely, the answer is a resounding NO!!
 
The FNP has been created by a small group of passionate people. We have donated our time (and in several cases, finances) to get this initiative up and running before we have asked for Membership subscriptions. (Tough call!)

Before we launched (inviting Supporters only as a membership that is FOC but will have limited access to the website), we received the support and the start of amazing collaborative projects with Habia (the only ‘authority regulated by Government and THE standards setting body), the British Beauty Council (the innovative Council for the whole sector that is and continues to address ALL the major issues of the wider sector) and BABTAC (one of the most successful associations in the sector that is aligned with CIBTAC).
 

There is also a new affiliation to be announced shortly that will bring us into the essential ‘Act of Parliament’ discussions regarding regulations. It is now ‘hair, nails and beauty’ when it has NEVER been before! In so many areas the nail sector has not been recognised as separate from ‘beauty’! Amazing but true.
 
The full Membership for The FNP will be launched in early 2021 when we are confident we have got it RIGHT!!
 

We cannot survive without Membership subscriptions. (I will do another post to explain where subscriptions will be spent so you can see our Company ethos). 
We are not going to launch the full Membership with any major sponsorship from brands as this can change the ethos! ‘Deep pocket’ accusations, answerable to specific brands and losing our goals and mission are some of the reasons we have decided on this step.
 
 

It is YOUR voice that is needed! We need to hear from YOU! The Members. The essence of what this industry is. The ‘foundation’ of this industry i.e the Educators which is why we have created the Licence to Teach initiative. Ground breaking as we can’t fight the ‘not fit for purpose’ training courses but we CAN support, elevate and embrace the GREAT teachers that make this industry what it SHOULD be!
 

When we launch our Membership, please consider joining. We have kept the fees low but the criteria quite strict! We need to ‘elevate’ NOT dumb down.
 
Just remember, these decisions that will affect us all WILL happen. The FNP needs to be there with YOUR voice!
 

The Founding Board Members have give their all for the love of our industry. We will soon be inviting equally passionate people to our Advisory Board so we can fill up the gaps in our knowledge and skill set. 
We are in a position to change history for the ‘professional nail industry’ and make it a true career with clear pathways, routes and goals and provide the blueprint for the future so we do, actually, have a future!  We need your Membership and we will invite brands and suppliers to help support us with a minimal investment that will ensure our collective ‘voice’ is heard and major decisions will not made in our absence! 
 

Please support us. Keep an eye open for an article that explains where funds will be spent. Next year we will need more volunteers to help elevate this industry and promote its safety and degree of care to the consumer.

We have everything to gain and nothing to lose!
 
Marian Newman, BEM
Chair
 
#jointhefeds at www.the-fnp.com
Complete the nail industry census https://the-fnp.com/survey/
 
Are Your Products Compliant & Legal?

Are Your Products Compliant & Legal?

There are very strict laws governing all cosmetic products sold and, as it is a law, there are serious implications if products breach the rules. As a nail professional, it is your responsibility to ensure, as far as possible, that you only buy and use legal products. This is for your safety and the safety of your clients. Also, in the event of an insurance claim and your insurer found that the product used was illegal then the policy will be invalid. It’s all very well knowing that but how can you tell if a product is compliant and therefore legal? Here are some simple guidelines to help you:

1. The Label

There are a number of things that MUST be on the label of every product

  • The name and address of the ‘Responsible Person’ in the company selling the product
  • The country of origin. NB any product manufactured in any EU country has just needed ‘Made in the EU’. However, next year (2021) this will change. Only products made in the UK do not need the country of origin. Labels must state any country outside of the UK
  • The declared quantity of contents eg ml or gm
  • Date of minimum durability. This only applies to products with 30 months or less durability eg some oils and creams. This is in the shape of an hourglass. Most nail products have a long durability before opening
  • Period after opening. This is shown as an open jar with a number on it eg. 24. This shows it is usable for 24 months after opening
  • Warning statements. eg flammable. It may also have a statement such as ‘for professional use only’. NB from next year, 2021, all products containing HEMA and di-HEMA must have ‘for professional use only’ and ‘can cause an allergic reaction’. This is because products containing those ingredients will be banned from retail sales
  • Batch code. This is important if there should be a problem with the product. Every new batch made by the manufacturer must have a specific code so it can be traced. eg every colour of polish will have a different batch code and this will change when a new batch is made. this is often a telltale sign of non-compliance! eg everything will have the same code or there will be none at all
  • Declaration of ingredients. This is essential and must list every ingredient (unless the % is tiny) from the highest to the lowest. NB this is different from the SDS (see below). The ingredients must also use their correct INCI name (This is the International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients. This is so every country uses the same wording e.g., water is aqua.Safety Data Sheets (SDS)

2. The Safety Data Sheet

SDS have taken over from MSDS and become globally standardised in a 16-section format. It is not a legal requirement for cosmetic products to have an SDS. However, it is essential for those that have hazardous ingredients. Every nail professional should undertake a COSHH assessment and they are needed or this. They should also be available in case of a first aid emergency, fire, and info on storage.  SDS do not give a full list of ingredients but they do list the hazardous ingredients and the approximate percentage. NB be very wary of a supplier who does not have SDS available or even if they only have MSDS which are very outdated and often with random information.

 

3. Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP)

It is a legal requirement for ALL cosmetic products to be registered on the CPNP before putting them on the market! This is not information that is readily available except to the Competent Authority which in the UK is the Health & Safety Executive. The requirements for this registration are very specific and very strict. For example, there must be Product Information File that contains:

  • the product description
  • cosmetic product safety report
  • details of manufacture in accordance with Good Manufacturing Practice
  • proof of the effect claimed
  • data on animal testing (banned globally)

The product safety report must be carried out by a suitably qualified professional. This process is expensive for those selling and supplying products and, unfortunately, it is very clear that many don’t follow these rules! An individual cannot check if this has been done. However, there is no reason you cannot ask for a screenshot of products on the register as proof the supplier is legal! There are many, many more regulations but these mostly apply to the supplier or brand.

Again, for those that like reading the documents, here are some useful links: The ‘Brief Guide’ on this link is very useful

https://www.ctpa.org.uk/supplying-or-manufacturing-a-cosmetic-product

https://www.ctpa.org.uk/legislation

https://www.hse.gov.uk/reach/compauth.htm

https://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.simple  

 

 

Written by

Marian Newman, BEM
Chair,

 

Changes to Product Regulations for 2021

Changes to Product Regulations for 2021

We will be seeing a lot of changes in 2021 with regards to cosmetic products including nail products.

This has some connection to the UK leaving the European Union but also in response to the allergies in evidence especially in the retail sector.

From next year, HEMA and di-MEMA will be banned from all retail products. As these are ingredients in the vast majority of retail UV gel polishes kits, the sale of which has proliferated over lockdown, will not be available.  These will not be banned in professional products but labels must have the wording ‘for professional use only’ and ‘can cause an allergic reaction’. This suggests that the products are in safer hands with professionals! But are they?

The incidence of allergies is an ever growing problem in the professional sector. There is a project well underway at Government level to discover if there is any problem with the products themselves. But we are all aware that part of the nail industry refuse to believe in the importance of using matching systems (i.e a UV nail lamp that has been tested by the UV gel manufacturers) and do not understand the importance in a ‘proper cure’. So many believe that a ‘proper cure’ can be checked by observation and that many years of use “with no problems” is good enough. Both incorrect!

Several global UV gel experts called for the total banning of these ingredients (and a few others) but the EU Commission were fearful that this blanket ban would lead to more monomers being banned that do not have such hazardous qualities.

This step is good to stop the retail sales but really doesn’t go far enough. HEMA and di-HEMA are not so bad when used in a small percentage but, as it is one of the cheapest, the percentages used in many products are dangerously high. Put this together with lack of education and understanding brings us to the situation we have today. There are other monomers that are as bad if not worse than HEMA but these haven’t been considered.

For those that like to see the legislation in black and white here is the link:

NB as this was published pre-Brexit it will be transferred to the new UK Regulations in January 2021 when they will come into force.

Other changes we will see post Brexit will affect labels and possible costs as so much is imported from the EU.

Up until the UK regulations come into force (and with time for manufacturers and brands to update their products) any product manufactured in the UK or EU just needed the country of origin as the EU. From next year any product not manufactured in the UK will need the country of origin.

Most of the cosmetic regulations will remain the same and just transferred to the new UK Regulations including a new UK notification portal which is mandatory before any cosmetic product can be placed on the market.

Relevant documents regarding Brexit advice

The CTPA, linked here, is a great resource for information on many subjects affecting this sector. There is a lot available to non-members.

Marian Newman BEM

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Welcome to The Federation of Nail Professionals

Welcome to The Federation of Nail Professionals

Welcome to The Federation of Nail Professionals!

Myself and fellow founding Board Members are thrilled to see you here as, hopefully,  very valued Supporters and Members.  Our mission is to do our very best to be the ‘voice of the nail industry’; YOUR voice.  This sector of the whole professional beauty industry has long been under represented and this was never more evident during the challenges we have had to face in 2020.  2021 is going to be a much better year for us all. Many initiatives and ‘conversations’ will be important features. Major issues like ‘regulation’ and licensing, product safety, higher levels of education and much more.  These will be happening anyway but The Feds will now be there at every turn to ensure our sector, that we are so passionate about, will have input. We intend to make sure any new initiatives are sensible and sustainable and accurately reflect what is needed for us as part of the wider beauty industry.

We want to hear your opinions, worries and concerns so communicate with us. We will gather your opinions on important issues from time to time via polls to help us encourage what is right for the sector.  Our aim is to elevate the industry and make sure it is recognised in the ‘highly skilled’ category. Accordingly, our membership criteria is strict and with robust quality controls.  We will applaud, recognise and embrace high levels of learning and skills. As a community we must come together with courage, kindness, clarity and creativity.

Join us as a Supporter (open to all and free) but especially as a Member whatever your role in the nail industry is. We cannot function without you!  Together, let us make the professional nail industry a brighter and safer for us and all our clients.

Thank you

Marian Newman BEM

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